Hoi An, Vietnam

Sunday, March 31

After a nice sleep in and breakfast we renting our mode of transportation for the days - a bicycle!  And headed to the famous (yet more expensive, says the locals) Yaly tailors.  Maria who works at our hotel came with us as she was curious and as a Vietnamese woman can't go in there on her own, only as a tour guide for tourists.

It's amazingly efficient there. I brought 3 tops and one dress with me to duplicate.  My personal assistant would show me the materials I could chose based on my clothes and I would have make a rather quick decision.  And when those pieces of cloth were picked out.  I was measure this way and that.  I saw one other dress in a "catalogue"  the "catalogues" were huge albums with plastic pages where someone has inserted hundreds and hundreds of magazine pictures of clothing - there are books for dresses, sundress, suits, pants, etc. And these seamstresses can just look at a piece of clothing and re-create it and/or say that will not look good on you.  It's truly amazing!

We then biked around the town and had lunch at Cargo - one of the many restaurants that was recommended by many.

I can't really remember what we did in the afternoon.  But we went to MangoRooms for dinner and then met Nancy and Ken Ishii, and Nysha and Aman for a mini CIS reunion    for dessert at Cargo.  Three grade 2 teachers and three grade 4 teachers (Lauren teaches 4th)!  Don't worry we didn't talk about work! 

CIS reunion - Aman, Nysha, me, Nancy, Ken

South China Sea

Monday, April 1

After breakfast, Lauren and I got on our bikes and biked to the beach, not far at all 15 mins. someone at our hotel gave us some good advice of where to park our bikes for free and then where to get a beach chair and umbrella.  The beach sand was nice and the water was surprisingly warm, though a tad dirty.  But that didn't stop me, I was in it twice!  The waves were quite big and the undertow strong.

We stayed there for about 4 hours and just as we were leaving, Nancy and Ken arrived.

We went for our first fitting, Nancy had warned us that when she had done this before they usually make the pieces larger.  Mine weren't larger but they were mostly a little too tight in the arm/shoulder area.

The black dress, they made was great....so I asked them to show me other materials and decided to make a burgandy one - good for "winter" in Singapore!

Then I asked if they could make me a pair of khaki linen pants.  Honestly, I could have gone on and on. 

Then we went touring the streets again and found this shoe place called Friendly which was recommended by "Valerie and Tyson" this couple we met in our hotel in Hanoi!  And we just kept seeing them everywhere we went here in Hoi An!  So I went into this really small shoe store and couldn't figure out what Tyson was raving about.  But then the ladies got plastic chairs for Lauren and I to sit on... still I was confused.  And then the catalogues came out... just like Yaly.  But if you couldn't find anything in those, you could look on the internet.  It was another incredible place.  You could find a shoe and and say I want it in this color and I want this and that.... and supposedly they can make it for you.  They had swatches for leather, half leather and not leather.  
Once all was decided based on the magazine pictures I chose and the swatches cut and clipped on, they measured both my feet and on Wednesday I will go for my shoe fitting! 4 pair of shoes for $95 USD made exactly how I want it for my feet!  I can't wait to see them.

I know, you are probably asking the same question - how am I going to fit this in my suitcase...good question... but they have really inexpensive suitcases here too!!!!

Then we biked to a wine bar called  The White Marble for a drink and then were meeting the CIS gang in front of Cargo to go to dinner.  We went to some Vietnamese restaurant where I tried many of the local dishes I was advised to try... cao lau, white rose, fried wontons, country pancakes and sticky rice - it was a set menu with all those things for a whooping $5.70!

Then we biked home.  Long day!  

Tuesday, April 2

Was up early  this morning to meet the Heaven and Earth Bicycle Tour for our 2.5 hour bike tour through town to the country side.  We stopped at the only place who make cao lau noodles, which is a famous dish here in Hoi An.  This family business is the only one who makes it and after 3 generations, there is a concern as no one wants to continue the job as it is hard work. The process includes soaking rice, straining the water, cooking it ontop of a wood burning stove, putting it in a machine to  do make it doughy, rolling it out, cutting it by hand into strips, laying them on banana leaves and selling it.  

these hats do keep the sun off ya!

watering the herbs!

making cao lau

Then we went to another person's house to see and learn about how bean sprouts are grown.  This a little easier process - rinse the bean seeds in a special water - from mountain spring, put it in riverbed sand in large clay pots in layers and in 3 days the sprouts are grown - rinse the sand off and viola fresh, organic bean sprouts!
Then we went to a herb garden and tasted different herbs fresh the garden, such as,  lemon basil, anasi basil, garlic chives, spring onions.  We took a hand at watering the plants like the locals which is basically 2 large watering cans attached to a string which is attached to wooden bar that goes across your shoulder blades and you collect the water and then water the plants. (photos coming)
We continued through rice paddies and fields of lotuses and water buffalo until the end.  What a hot day today. 
We had a break for some Vietnamese ice coffee with sweetened condensed milk!  It's good!  And then wandered to the historical part of town across the Japanese bridge.  The whole town is a UNESCO site influenced by the French.  2 story buildings some painted yellow, some wood ones.  So many clothing stores it's truly addicting and overwhelming.  Same, same but different!

We had our second (but not last) fittings for our clothes at Yaly.  My khaki linen pants were not ready yet.  However in the end I will have had 3 dresses made, 4 tops, 1 pair of pants and got 2 skirts in Hanoi.  And 4 pairs of shoes!

April 3

Last day - and another beautiful day - yes hot and humid but sunny and blue skies!  We were picked up at our hotel about 8 by the owner of this cooking class we were taking the company is called.....
We picked up a few others and met everyone at the market.  Like many other cooking

at the market

boat ride through water coconut forest

classes I have taken around the world, we go to the market to purchase all the ingredients for the class and of course learn about different herbs, spices and fruits and vegetables.  It's all so colorful and interesting smells.. the meat area - gross!
Then we got on a boat and went for a 45 minute river cruise passed fisherman villages to where the river meets the sea.  And got into small typical long boats that a woman paddled us through a water coconut forest.  Afterwards we had a short stop at a rustic villager's house to learn and take our hand at husking rice and making rice milk the traditional methods.  Wow, it's a lot of hard work!
Next door, we went to the open-air cooking school.  We made 1. Goi Cuon - fresh spring rolls with chicken and shrimp and a tangy peanut dipping sauce.
2.  Banh Xeo - Sizzling Vietnamese crepes filled with port and shrimp, bean sprouts and other greens and a traditional dipping sauce of fish sauce, garlic, chili, lime and sugar.
3.  Bun Bo Nam Bo - Herb salad with saute beef and rice vermicelli, topped with roasted peanuts and warm beef jus viaigrette.
4.  Pho Bo Ha Noi - Beef rice noodle soup infused with beef bones, cinnamon, ginger and star anise.

I think I could definitely make #3 again.  And of course I got a recipe book too.
Once we return to our hotel, we got on our bikes and biked into town to go for my shoe fitting.  They were all good except the left foot for 2 of the shoes as my left foot is larger than my right.  So I will  swing by there on my way to dinner tonight.

Unfortunately after 2 more fittings I was unable to get the silver shoes because the toe strap was just too tight and since the material was faux leather there wasn't much room to stretch. So I got my money back for those. But my other 3 pairs as good. 

Good night Vietnam! Like the Vietnamese say "see you tomorrow".  

the dreadful night of Halong Bay..

After diner there really wasn't much to do except read or play games - which we didn't bring so we head to our cabin on the first floor.  I was quite tired and fell asleep about 9:55 and I usually go into a deep sleep right away. And Lauren  was up reading.  About 30 minutes later Lauren wakes me up to inform me that she hears rats or mice in the walls.  I listen and too hear rats squeaking and  like gnawing at the walls right on the other side of the wall where our heads a re.  This would be close to one of Lauren's worst nightmares, so I suggest to her to put her head on the other side of the bed as she does.Then we hear the rats run - run through the walls and on the ceiling.  Although I wasn't perfectly pleased it didn't bother me as long as I didn't see them.  So she said what should we do?  I didn't really think we could do anything but t the boat was full, it was late and there was nothing for us to do/go.  So I put my earplugs in and my eye shade on as Lauren was adamant to lie there awake all night terrified of them coming out of somewhere.  It was difficult to sleep as there was a boat near by doing karaoke and I had been so startlingly awoken.  I slept some but no deep sleep and did continue to hear the rats until we finally got up about 7.

caves

It was misty/foggy and since no one told us what time breakfast was... actually let me step back no one told us anything.The driver who driver 3+ hours from Hanoi and then back again to the Hanoi airport didn't speak a word of English.  There was a group of 5 Germans and they had a tour guide that spoke German on the boat and the boat crew could just say the basics, such as what exactly we were eating and some other common phrases.  So after breakfast which we were obviously late for, we did explore these amazing caves, then when we returned to the boat, the guy who went kayaking with me asked me how we slept I told him that we didn't.  I said rats and then acting out rats and  by the look or lack of expression on his fade wasn't at all surprised there were rats in the walls.
at this point we still owed $55 USD of our payment which they had asked for yesterday and in hindsight we were glad that we didn't give it to them yesterday as it was our leverage.  We got the manager on the phone which told us it was our fault for not saying something last night and since they did not hear anything from our boat they thought all was fine.  We indicated that  it was late and we didn't know there was someone on duty 24 hours a day as no one told us anything about this.  (the other guests were told that 2 more Germans were joining their boat)  We never knew what was going on.  No one told us anything.  But one of the men who served us food said to me - in broken English and charades) that all 5 crew men need to stay in one room and it's beside the diesel engine which is a horrible smell, so they usually slept in the dinning room and one guy- the captain slept in the small cockpit.
So the guys on board kept telling us that we needed to give the $55 US to them . We initially tried to to say for compensation we shouldn't have to pay the rest.  Then the German tour guide got involved and literally said they these  these crew members  have no money and he was sure  between the two of us we had $50.  And then said we could go to the ATM when we got off the boat.  and we DPT saying no that they need to charge Lauren's credit card which she used to pay for the rest of the trip.  As Lauren is going to dispute this.
So finally when they realized we were not budging we docked and someone from the boat company came on and charged Lauren's credit card.
After diner there really wasn't much to do except read or play games - which we didn't bring so we head to our cabin on the first floor.  i was quite tired and felll asleep about 9:55 and I usually go into a deep sleep right away. And Lauren  was up reading.  About 30 minutes later Lauren wakes me up to infrom me that she hears rats or mice in the walls.  I listen and too hear rats squeeking and  like gnawing at the walls right on the other side of the wall where our heads a re.  This would be close to one of Lauren's worst nightmares, so I suggest to her to put her head on the other side of the bed as she does.Then we hear the rats run - run throught othe walls and on the celing.  Although I wasn't perfectly pleased it didn't bother me as long as I didn
t see them.  So she said what should we do?  I didn't really think we could do anything but t the boat was full, it was late and there was nothing for us to do/go.  So I put my earplugs in and my eye shade on as Lauren was admannt to lie there awake all night terrified of them coming out of somewhere.  It was difficult to sleep as there was a boat near by doing karaoke and I had been so startledly awoken.  I slept some but no deep sleep and did continue to hear the rats until we finally got up about 7.
It was misty/foggy and since no one told us what time breakfast was... actually let me step back no one told us anything.The driver who driver 3+ hours from Hanoi and then back again to the Hanoi airport didn't speak a word of English.  There was a group of 5 Germans and they had a tour guide that spoke German on the boat and the boat crew could just say the basics, such as what exactly we were eating and some other common phrses.  So after breakfast which we were obniously late for, we did explore these amazing caves, then when we returned to the boat, the guy who went kayaking with me asked me how we slept I told him that we didn't.  I said rats and then acting out rats and  by the look or lack of expression on his fade wasn't at all surprised there were rats in the walls.
at this point we still owed $55 USD of our payment which they had asked for yesterday and inhindsight we were glad that we didn't give it to them yesterday as it was our leverage.  We got the manager on the phone which told us it was our fault for not saying something last night and since they did not hear anything from our boat they thought all was fine.  We indicated taht  it was late and we didn't kow there was someonone on duty 24 hours a day as no one told us anything about this.  (the other guests were told that 2 more Germans were joinging their boat)  We never knew what was going on.  No one told us anything.  But one of the men who served us food said to me - in broken English and charades) that all 5 crew men need to stay in one room and it's beside the diesal engine which is a horrible smell, so they usually sleep onin the dinning room and one guy- the captain sleeps in the small cockpit.

So the guys on board kept telling us that we needed to give the $55 US to them . We initially tried to to say for compensation we shouldn't have to pay the rest.  Then the German tour guide got involved and literally said they these  these crew memm=bers have no money and he was sure  between the two of us we had $50.  And then said we could go to the atM when we got off the boat.  and we dkept saying no that they needto charge Lauren's credit card which she used to pay for the rest of the trip.  As Lauren is going to dispute this.
So finally when they realized we were not budging we docked and someone from the boat company came on and charged Lauren's credit card.

The food was good and the formations were incredible.  Like many people said you only need  to be on one night (even the Germans said one night is just enough). 

Halong Bay, Vietnam

Fri. March 29

Check out and pick up at 7:30 to head to Halong Bay.  It's nice we are in a private car for the 3+ hour drive but there are no seatbelts in the back and the driving is just a tad scary for my liking and to know there are no seat belts... well....
The amount of things the Vietnamese can pile onto their motorbikes is really quite impressive!.

We arrive at Halong bay city about 11:30 and take some time.. ok.. here I am typing on my wireless keyboard with my laptop propped up as I look down and see a woman in a large rowboat selling  goods, it's all a little surreal.

We get on our Junk Boat called Bien Ngoc 10.  There 5 Germans on board - they have been travelling for Vietnam 3 weeks - and tonight is their last night.  
Now I don't know exactly what I was expecting but this was not exactly it.  It's just fine but not exactly what I was expecting.  We had lunch which for me was a huge variety of fish, my view was the by-passing rock/mountain formation.  Epic!

Next we went to visit a Pearl Farm.  I learned that they use oyster shells frome Mississippi River to chip off the pearly inner sheels into small cubish  pieces and then  with a machine round them into small balls.  Next they use the oysters here  and extract some of the pearl tissue which live inside the oyster to sort of pregnant it and put it into another oyster that is 3 years old  with the hopes it will form into a pearl.  It will take 2 more years to grow the pearl.  And that's why it's called a cultured pearl.  And that is why they are expensive.  A person has to manually open the oyster and put in the cultured pearl!
A visitor learning about the pearls chose an oyster and someone broke it open and there was an oyster there but they said they could not use it because it was faulty as it had a brown blemish on it. 

Then we had a choice to either to climb to the top of treetop hill or go kayaking.  So I decided to go kayaking as I wanted to continue my - how many places can I kayak!  Thought to overlook this natural wonder of the world would have been good - maybe Lauren will share her photos.

After we dropped everyone else off at the hike, they brought me to another area.  One of the ladies on the boat (they were all here last night too) said they had gone kayaking yesterday and they had to follow a guide and sign your life away.  Me - I was handed a life jacket and then pointed to a boat.  I asked if there was a guide and they said no but then one of the guys which works on the boat said he would come with me and got in the boat.  We had a quick paddle across the way where he showed me a cave.  We got out  and I walked around and saw the stallemites and staglegtites.  Then we went around a few rock structures and you could see the shell fossils clinging to the rocks.  The rock is quite porous - I think it is limestone.

snacks?

So these women in these rowboats selling 7-11 stuff, snacks, water, beer, wine, etc.  smart idea.  However I had already purchased my beer from the boat not knowing that is what these ladies do.

Halong Bay is a UNWSCO World Heritage Site - it spreads acrose 580 sq.miles with more than 2,000 pinnacle-shaped limestone and dolomite coutcrops.  According to legend, the bay was formed when a gigantic dragon - ha long means descending dragon - plunged in the Gulf of Tonkin and created all these myriads with the lashing of its tail.

Dinner on the boat

Hanoi, Vietnam

Tues. March 26

Lauren on the streets of Hanoi

Departed Changi at 8 am and landed in Hanoi 10:30 am (Vietnam time... 3hours later).  Driver was there to take us to our hotel - Hanoi Elegance Diamond Hotel right near the Haon Kiem Lake.

Nice room - 2 double beds.. even has a laptop.  Bottled water is about 80 cents for a small or $1 for a large.  A can of beer... $1.80.
We had lunch at their rooftop cafe - me I had a 3 course meal of spring rolls, Pho - their well-known chicken noodle soup and some ice cream and a drink... all for $12.

on the Sunbeam Bridge, Hoan Kiem Lake

 Then we went walking around the area.  Now we had heard it was quite difficult or a skill to cross the roads as there are no traffic lights and pedestrians don't have any rights, so the receptionist gave us this advice....don't step back, don't look left or right, and go at a slow pace.  OMG its like frogger but miraculously they all just go around you.  motorbikes everywhere and honking, honking, honking.

Since the lake is so close to us, we went there first, walked over the famous red bridge to the temple on the island on the other side.  It was said that a large tortoise appeared from the water having a magical sword on it's back that this emperor took to ward out the Chinese from the lands of Vietnam.  So one is always on the lookout for another tortoise in the waters.

The sidewalks are really not for us to walk on it, it's more for the motorbikes to park on so most of the time people are walking on the roads.  Each street is sort of for a different speciality.  We went down a street that sold seamstress supplies, buttons, ribbons, yarn, batting, material, etc.  Then another street had all kids things - strollers, toys, clothes.  Then another one had all automotive "garage" stuff.

We found St. Joseph's Cathedral and went in for some peace, cooling and reflection.  Since the French were here for a long time, thus the cathedral.
Continued on and found a spa which we took upon us that we needed a $14    1.5hr. pedicure and leg/foot massage.  Then went out for a relatively late dinner.  Chatted with 2 Aussies whom just had been to Saigon and Hoi An and low and behold, they stayed in the same 8-room boutique hotel that we will be staying in while we are in Hoi An. 

Wed. March 27
We walked down to see the Opera House and on the way found the "Orchard St" or "5th Avenue" of Hanoi.  I bought a Pandora camera charm and then saw the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel.

Then we continued and went to the Women's Museum (with the entrance of a whooping $1.42 fee).  The Vietnamese women are strong not only physically but mentally.  They are the ones carrying the poles with baskets on either end selling stuff on the road, as well as bicycles full of stuff to sell.  During all the wartime times they were not only tending to the children, rearing them and educating; they were also planting and harvesting rice (we know how back-breaking that is); as well as they in the production of needed wartime things; and were part of armies.
As we were leaving the museum we noticed a Japanese doll exhibition and so went in.  We could try on kimonos - so we did!

Next stop the "Hanoi Hilton" - prison Hoa Lo Prison Museum.  Vietnam's take on how the Americans were treated seemed 'a little different' than John McCain's version.  He was there for 5.5 years; 2 years in total confinement.  
After a lot of walking and somewhat depressing visits, we had lunch and then walked back to our area and got 1.5 hour massages for only $58! 
Dinner we went to fantastic place called Green Mango.  I had a glass of red wine, a delicious stir-fry chicken and cashew nut dinner and split the apple crumble with Lauren all for $12.  There was an event going to raise money for a girls' orphanage in  Vietnam at the back of the restaurant with a live band, so we checked it out for a while and then headed home.  (And of course because I changed purses and had been carrying my umbrella around all day, and now didn't have it - it rained!

Thurs. March 28

Breakfast with a nice couple from Australia who gave us some good advice for the day - though the masoleum line is extremely long, the line does move quickly.  And recommended a restaurant which we end up going to for dinner tonight - Green Tangerine.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

The line to enter the mausoleum was quite long but it was under cover and did keep moving along.  You were not to have any drinks and you were to turn in your cameras before entering but I just kept mine in my purse.  I thought I would use my time wisely and read while I was in line but I was told by a guard that that was not allowed. 
So Ho Chi Minh had instructed in his will to be cremated but when he did the government over ruled this will and didn't cremate him, so now everyone can view hi as he was embalmed.  He is in a large pillared marble buiding  with 4 guards that stand around him.
We then tour the grounds of the President's Palace and then saw the one-pillar pagoda.  

Then we got in a taxi and went to visit the Temple of Literature.  This was built in 1070 during the Ly Dynasty (1009-1225).  Founded in honor of the Chinese philospher Confucius.  There were school children there and some high school graduates getting their pics taken.  The set up reminded me (thought on a much smaller scale) of the Forbidden City as there buildings were similar and you walk out one building to another courtyard with more buildings around it.
Then we hailed another taxi which brought us back into town near St. Josephi's Cathedral to have lunch (at La Place) and begin our shopping.  We bought Longchomp bags and browsed around at the heaps and heaps of things to buy.

Water Puppet Show

  Then we headed back to ur hotel for a shower and rest.  Next we went to the famous  Thang Long Water Puppet show at 3:30.  I had heard good reviews of it and we had just about front row seats.  The puppets are all in the water like marionettes but now on strings moved by poles and things underwater. The puppeteers are behind some bamboo walls and the  choreography and talent is really impressive.  Afterwards we continued our shopping for sunglasses, more dresses/skirts and such.  I got a beautiful silk skirt that the lady altered for me while I was at dinner.  And then I got a fun, colorful wrap skirt. Early to bed as we had rise early to head to Halong Bay.

Christmas and New Years 2012

Monday December 24 - Christmas Eve and beyond!

Packed up and checked out. I had only about 1.5 hours to kill before the bus was to pick me up to drive me back down Queenstown so I rent a bike to expedite my trip to and from town. Walked around a bit and had lunch at a cafe.  Connexion Bus service picked me and then had to pick up another lady from the cafe in town. Mrs. Forbes - as I was sharing this story of Mrs. Forbes to Kerry and her parents and Elaine tells me that she knows the story because this lady's story was on TV. Anyway this lady lives in Queenstown and was formerly an artist and liked to go different areas to paint her landscapes. Well she is 91 years old and gets I this bus shuttle everyday at 9:30 arriving at Queenstown 10:30 goes to the same cafe RelishCafe and sits in the exact spot and orders the exact item. And the shuttle that I took at 1pm picks her at the cafe and brings her back to Queenstown and she does this every single day. 

Kerry and Tony (dad) boogie boarding

Had an uneventful flight back to Auckland and was back at the Peirces by 7pm for Xmas Eve dinner. 

Christmas Day - had breakfast, opened our gifts and then had Xmas lunch with the Peirces plus Kerry's brother Scott and his wife Brooke, her parents and her grandmother. 
Boxing Day - it rained.  Next day we packed up our cards and went to their cottage - which they call a bach - which is pronounced batch.  The bach is only an hour away.  Great sandy 4km beach with sand just like Goose Rocks Beach in Maine!  We were busy going on walks with Chloe the dog, going on hikes, boggie boarding on the waves, BBQing and reading.  

New Years Eve - returned to Auckland and went to a friend of Kerry's friend's house for dinner and good fun. 

Jan 3 - Spent another great day with Sarah Gray.  I am so glad I was able to re-unite with her.  We have so much fun together.  We spent the day at the Women's International Tennis tournament - ASB Classic.  

Wine Tasting - Wanake - Central Otago

December 23-24

Lake Wanake

A nice sleep in and woke up to a beautiful view of Lake Wanaka.  Had breakfast and then walked the 25 minutes around the lake to the town of Wanaka. Larger and busier than Te Anau but the town shops and cafes were parallel to the waterfront rather than perpendicular as in Te Anau.  Met my tour at 1pm in town. Tour was a wine tour through the Central Otago region. There was a young couple from Iowa Kelly and Coda (2.5 month newlyweds) and than another newlywed couple from Hong Kong. 

We went to 4 wineries well-known for Rieslings and Pinot Noirs as this region is along the 45th Parallel south of the equator  similar to 45th parallel north of the equator where it falls in the Bordeaux area of France and in Northern California / Oregon area  in the north. 

The first one we went to was the Rockburn Winery - I enjoyed Three Barrels Sauvignon Blanc, Spitfire Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir (2010), and  Twelve Barrels Pinot Noir.
Then we went to Akarua Winery - I liked the Pinot Rose, Riesling  (2012) and the Pinot Gris (2011).  And Akarau RUA Pinot Noir (2011). 
Next we went to Mt. Difficulty Winery and they had a restaurant attached to it  and it reminded me of Linden in VA.  here I liked, 

The last one we went to (just before they closed) was Northburn. And they matched their wine tasting with food!  I liked the  Pinot Noir (2009). 

After the wine tasting and driving along the river near Cromwell an area popular for pitted fruit thus the gigantic plastic pitted fruit structure we returned back to our accommodations. We asked John our tour guide for restaurant recommendations and he suggested to Alevate and nicely called and made reservations for us, Kelly and Coda asked me to join them for dinner. S we had dinner there overlooking the lake and watching the sun set and then skirted over to Patagonia for an ice cream!